3/23/13
Today was a day for exploring the Negev desert, the northern
part of it, anyway, a place that I have never been to despite the fact that
this is the area we lived in and always visit when we come to Israel. It was also a chance to see some places
that are politically relevant at this time in Israeli life. Yoram’s brother,
Amir, was the tour guide, and it was the 4 of us, Yoram’s dad, and Amir’s
daughter and her boyfriend. We drove north and passed through the area
populated by Bedouin—nomadic Arabs who have lived in this region for centuries.
We passed through many small villages, seeing the shepherds with their sheep
and goats on the hillsides, but then came to a new city, built by the Israeli
government to try to solve the problem of the nomadic Bedouin running out of
room for their animals to graze, and infringing on established communities. Just
past that was the largest established Bedouin city, Rahat, with about 60,000
residents (Beersheba, the 4th largest city in Israel has 200,000—the
population of Irvine!) We continued west to another Kibbutz, Beit Kama. This
was a successful and thriving kibbutz, but the young people grew up and left,
so that the only people who remained were living on Social Security, and really
couldn’t support themselves. To revitalize the community, they decided to sell
the land immediately outside the kibbutz to people who wanted to live in a more
rural setting in the area, but didn’t want to live communally. They could build
private homes, but would receive many of the services (child care, schooling,
infrastructure, recreation etc.) from the kibbutz, which became an incentive
for some of the young members to return to the kibbutz with more job
opportunities and more young people around. The fields of pea plants
were so green, and ready to be harvested. The big spring bloom was about 3
weeks ago, but there were still a few daisies and poppies around.
We drove west, passing through the town of Sederot, where
many of the rockets fell during the war this past fall. We continued west to a
viewpoint near the border with the Gaza strip where we could see the northern
part of the strip. In the photo, you see the Gaza strip in the distance on the
left, then the sandy colored area is where the Israeli settlements were, which
was returned to the Palestinians. The settlement buildings were destroyed when
the settlers left, but nothing has been built there since. Then, to the right,
you can see the towers of the electric power plant in the Israeli city of
Ashkelon—that’s how close everything is!
The northern part of the Gaza strip |
The fam: Inbar, Yoram, Liron, Aharon, Shiri and Mical |
From there we turned south, following the road parallel to
the border with Gaza, stopping by some fields with winter wheat. It was so windy, and I love the
undulating view of the fields in the wind.
Our last stop was Kibbutz Be’eri, this time for a history
lesson. Both Be’eri and Hatzerim were 2 of the “11 points”, 11 settlements that
were established by Israeli Youth Movements in 1 night, the day after Yom
Kippur (the Day of Atonement) in 1946 . The British mandate in Palestine didn’t
allow the establishment of new Jewish villages, but it was important for the
Jews to establish a presence in the Negev. Turkish law (the law the British
went by, since Turkey (the Otoman empire) governed the area before the British,
and lost control in WWI) stated that as long as there’s a roof on the house, it
cannot be demolished. So the idea was, to pick a day which, because it was a
High Holy Day, there could be no work done, take the British by surprise, and
set up the settlements quickly to establish a presence in the area. Yoram’s dad
was 1 of the small group of twenty-year-olds that established Be’eri, and this
is the original watchtower the built in 1946. These settlements provided the base from which to defend the
area in the War of Independence in 1948, and 10 of the 11 still exist today,
many as thriving Kibbutzim! Yoram’s dad moved to Hatzerim in ’48, when the
kibbutz movement split into 2 different ideological camps.
The original watchtower |
History lesson straight from the primary source" |
A dugout used during the 1948 War of Independence |
From there we had a delicious meal in Beersheba and headed
back to the kibbutz. Tomorrow we go to Jerusalem!
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